Wine Giques

Mimosas and the Easter Sunday Brunchy thang

My family and I are back in the hood, Atlanta, just in time for Easter. These Southern Baptists, and the like, take their Easter Sunday seriously - bonnets abound, stores are closed, Churches are hoppin', and (like every other Sunday in this state) alcohol can only be had at a restaurant or bar, and only after noon. And, honey, no body dresses better than the brothers...
Brunch is very popular in Metro Atlanta and my favorite place is one where I used to work - Murphy's in Virginia Highlands.

I was really looking forward to biscuits - toast just won't do. And the Bloody Mary's are great- but never before noon. We wanted to beat the crowd, and forego the Bloody Mary's. I couldn't wait for the biscuit's but, they were not the same. New pastry chef.

So - we ate a fabulous brunch with all the goodnesss (and gravy) that the south has to offer, then we went home and drank.We made Mimosas with Chandon Blanc de Blanc and some fresh OJ. Nothing is better than Mimosas at noon and a very good nap.

Make sure you have the right bubbly (none of that cheap shit) and some very good biscuits.

Open Wine Consortium

A couple of weeks ago I joined the Facebook of (Wine Biz facing) Social Networking sites, Open Wine Consortium. It was bound to happen (not me joining since I was strongly urged by the CEO of my day job) that there would be a site similar to Facebook for all of us roaming wine types.

I had my doubts - I'm not so fond of the emails every other day from Facebook that inform me that one more stranger wants to add me as a friend. Very Six-Degrees-of-Kevin-Bacon but not something that will get me to log in and visit my ... wall. Open Wine Consortium saves all your buddies until you log in (which seems so much more grown-up) and kinda like a surprise party or a high school reunion for oenophiles. The other day I reconnected with someone I used to see in a small SF neighborhood restaurant. He was a fresh-faced wine geek (barely 21) then - now he's a seasoned winemaker. Go figure.

I've been hearing some good stories coming out of this. My client and friend, Tessa, joined OWC and started to make some connections that will really help her business along. The first day she made an on-premise placement and created some buzz for her brand. I have also seen bloggers shamelessly fishing for wines to  review  - something I am seriously thinking about doing since I am will go broke if I buy the kind of wines I'd like to write about.

This post sucks but, Open Wine Consortium doesn't. Joe Bob says check-it-out!

Names Have Been Changed to Protect the Innocent

I was lucky enough to have to jet up to the Bay Area a few days ago.  I spent the night at the home of a couple of friends of mine . . . let's just call them "Minn" and "Query."  Now, Minn has gotten together with some pals, bought some grapes, and made some wine.  See, folks up there in the Bay Area do stuff like that. Here in LA, we get together with pals and buy shiny sunglasses and expensive denim.  But the Bay Area is food-and-wine-involved.  They wear Dockers and eat well.   Angelenos shun Dockers and pretend they don't eat, unless they have a reservation at Craft or Mozza.  (Minn also happens to be in the restaurant business, so he has better connections than usual when he gets a bee in his bonnet about making wine.) 

This is serious wine, not basement-vintage stuff (although Minn has made a bit of that in his day, as well.  He also makes stuff like this.  And this.  Multi-talented, that Minn.)  It's a Syrah, made from Paso Robles grapes, and blended by a guy named Robert Lindquist, who happens to make wine for a little winery called Qupé.  It's called Old Press, and it is mighty fine wine.  A little tobacco-ish, some lively fruit, soft in your mouth.  2005 vintage made from grapes from Carriage Vineyards, in northeastern Paso Robles. 

So, we were sitting in Minn and Query's den, quaffing Old Press and gnawing on the biggest breadsticks I've ever seen. They looked like bones.  I dubbed them "CSI breadsticks" because, as you know, I love me some CSI.  And Minn proceeded to tell us a little story.

See, Minn has a partner in the wine venture.  His name is, shall we say, "Spichael."  Spichael was preparing for a business trip to LA a while back, when Minn showed him the wine list from a very famous steak place with a fabulous cellar, owned by Wolfgang Puck.  We'll call the restaurant "Putt."   Spichael was very excited to be eating at Putt, as reservations were hard to come by.  He got even more excited when Minn showed him the wine list, because right smack dab on the list, there it was:  Old Press Syrah. 

"Look," said Minn, "Old Press is on the wine list at Putt.  Amazing!"

"Excellent," said Spichael, "I'll order it when I'm there."

And Spichael did as he said.  When he arrived at Putt with his dinner partner, he perused the wine list, looking for Old Press.  It was not there.  He called over the waiter and said "I'd like to order a bottle of Old Press, but I don't see it on the list."  The waiter responded that he knew the wines on the list, and could not recall ever seeing Old Press.  Spichael called for the sommelier.  The sommelier said "I'm sorry sir, but I've never heard of that wine." 

"Of course you have," said Spichael.  "I saw it on your list." 

"Where did you get the list?" asked the sommelier. 

"I got the list from my partner," said Spichael, "He printed it off the web."  And that's when the lightbulb went off.

As you have probably surmised, Minn is very much a practical joker.  And he made a few additions to the wine list before he handed it to Spichael.  So Spichael did not get to drink Old Press that night at Putt, and he probably had to call a few friends to tell them not to look for it.   Spichael, BTW, is a partner in something like eight restaurants.  So maybe had had to call more than a few friends, now that I think about it.  Probably like 50 friends, all with reservations at Putt.

Alas, Old Press does not have a distributor, so there's no way it could have been in Putt's cellar, even if Wolf had wanted it there.  And most of the 2005 vintage may be in boxes in Minn and Query's kitchen.  But there are more vintages coming.  Go to the website and get on their list.   Then tell a few friends about this great wine you found on at your favorite restaurant/wine store/bar and wait for them to ask for it.  Tell them to say "Minn sent me." 

CSI México

We have to fess up to an infatuation with CSI at Casa Angeles.  One of our favorite things is the four-hour-long CSI marathon that Spike TV seems to host on a regular basis.  This weekend, it was good for hanging blinds in the guesthouse -- one gruesome crime after another, one screw after another in the windowframe.  We've learned from experience, however, that viewing CSI is not an act to be done while eating -- all too often, the lab scenes bear a disturbing resemblance to the substances on your dinner plate. 

My point?  Hanging blinds is hungry work.  When we were done, and Mr. Grissom and crew were banished from the airwaves, it was time to eat.  The weather outside had cooled, and there was a little spring rain, so something somewhat hearty was in order.  I reached for an old standby -- the box of riso arborio  -- and made a mushroom risotto, sprinkled with rosemary and drizzled with my little bottle of balsamic reduction.

I had found a random bottle of white wine in the fridge, simply labeled "HL," with the word "Semillon" in bold black type, "2MIL6" in gold type underneath.   I examined the glass:  no fingerprints.  No signs of forced entry on the fridge.  A mysterious bottle, indeed, -- but it seemed perfect for the risotto, so I poured a bit into the pot, and a bit into a glass, for me.

Now, I'm generally not a big quaffer of Sémillon.  I find that its ripeness makes it a better food wine, so I don't usually choose it as an apéritif.  However, it was magic with the risotto -- sauteed onions, the sweetness of the balsamic, the creaminess of the rice, the sensuousness of the wine:  it all came together perfectly.  I had another glass. And then another. 

"Where, oh where," I wondered, "Did this magic bottle of wine come from?  Do I need to call in Mr. Grissom?"  Hoping that the CSI team wouldn't be too disgusted by the viscous remains of the risotto in my Calphalon pan, I went to bed.  It wasn't until morning, when I found two more magical bottles of wine on the kitchen counter, that I remembered.  It came from Mexico.   

Our au pair is a native of Aguascalientes, a beautiful old city in the heart of Mexico.  Apparently, Mexico is responsible for the oldest wine-growing traditions in the Americas.  Long before Thomas Jefferson was pondering the climate in the hills of Virginia, even before Junipero Serra led his adventurous band of friars up the coast of Alta California, vinifera grapes were being planted in the heart of Mexico, under the supervision of conquistador Hernando Cortes.  The Aguascalientes region was, for centuries, the foremost wine-producing region in Mexico.  However, the lack of a serious wine culture and the impact of NAFTA has caused the number of wineries in the region (and in Mexico in general, unfortunately) to dwindle to a handful.

My magic bottles arrived courtesy of our au pair's brother, Miguel, who has come for a week-long visit.  He brought the Sémillon (now disappeared!), and two Cabernets, one of which was bottled specifically to celebrate the 425th anniversary of Aguascalientes and its fabulous vinifera grapes.   The wines all come from Las Bodegas de la Hacienda de Letras, a winery established about 20 years ago to carry on the winemaking traditions of the regions.  The grapes all come from the valley of Montegrande.  None of the wines are commercially available in the U.S., unfortunately.  But they sure are tasty.  If I manage to exhume a few more bottles somewhere, I'll be sure to let you know.  But don't tell Grissom.   

What to Drink with American Idol.

My pal Jeffy is a mensch.  He knows a lot about art.  (Go to see the Richard Serra sculpture with him at BCAM and you’ll find out exactly how much.)  He runs a kajillion miles a week and swims laps at the pool in the Rose Bowl gym.  He makes a mean cassoulet.  He’s some kind of math genius.  And, he’s super handsome, to boot.  But, until a few weeks ago, he knew nothing about American Idol.  See, Jeffy doesn’t have a teevee, so I think he was the last “Idol virgin” in the country.  Not any more. 

Now he’s hooked.  He comes to our house every Tuesday to watch.  He cooks up some of that cassoulet.  Or maybe a kick-ass pizza.  We sit back, watch, drink some wine, and criticize everything from the singing to the shoes.   And so, the inevitable has happened:  we’re now choosing our wine based on the American Idol experience.  We’ve found a great house Chianti, a very nice Spanish red, and a lovely Pinot Noir.   But enough with the generic wine list.  It’s time to get serious – it’s time to choose our wines by American Idol CONTESTANT.

One person will be eliminated tonight.  In the interest of proving we don’t know who’s going to be booted off, we’re making American Idol Pairing™ suggestions for each of the current top 12, listed in alphabetical order, just as they are on the show website:

Amanda Overmyer – Amanda sounds like the reincarnation of Janis Joplin at her booziest.  We recommend something spicy, like a good California Zinfandel.  2005 Gnarly Head Old Vines Zin, about $12.

Brooke White – Brooke channels a non-Idol Carly – Carly Simon – at every opportunity.  Her Teflon goody-two-shoes exterior demands something sunny and mellow to accompany it.  We recommend a light French-style Chardonnay:  2006 Hayman & Hill Reserve Selection Russian River Valley, about $15.

Carly Smithson – Given her Irish background, we actually considered recommending a robust ale or porter for Carly, but instead decided to pick a wine that goes well with corned beef and potatoes: 2006 Mason Sauvignon Blanc, about $16. 

Chikezie – Chikezie’s smooth stylings demand something mellow and rich.  We recommend a Merlot that could possibly get better with age.  Hogue Columbia Valley 2005 Genesis.  About $15.

David Archuleta –  Something technically bright and very young would go well with David A.’s Michael Jackson-like vocal runs.  Beaujolais Nouveau.  Drink it fast:  like David A., it won’t keep.  Georges DuBoeuf 2007 Beaujolais-Villages. About $12. 

David Cook – David C. is the “dark horse” in the competition.  With real musical chops, he’s going to be signed regardless where he lands in the lineup.  We recommend a robust wine that’s an extremely good value for the money:  2005 Casa Lapostolle Cuvée Alexandre Merlot, about $20. 

David Hernandez – David H’s. gaudy strip-club mannerisms and overblown wailing deserve something kinda fake.  We chose White Zinfandel, a white wine made from red grapes.  Any brand will do.

Jason Castro – sweet and mellow, he looks like a young John Travolta with dreads.  No doubt that he’s big with the tween crowd.  Something easy on the palate, like a nice Pinot Grigio.  We chose  2005 Borgo Maddalena Delle Venezie, about $13.

Kristy Lee Cook – Kristy professes to hail from Oregon.  Her manufactured bubbliness would go well with an Oregon sparkling wine:  Argyle Brut Rose 2005.  Pink and tasty.  It's about $35 a bottle, so save it to drink when she gets voted off.

Michael Lee Johns – This one’s obvious, isn’t it?  The “Duende from Down Under” demands an Aussie vintage.  He’s a little stiff, so we looked for something with a high alcohol content to loosen him up.  2006 Pure Love Layer Cake Shiraz, about $15.

Ramiele Malubay --  The only remaining Asian contestant, this tiny person has a big, big voice.  Something surprising would be appropriate.  Even better if  it’s good with Asian food.  We recommend Villa Maria 2007 Private Bin Riesling, about $10.

Syesha Mercado – Miami resident Syesha’s spicy Latina heritage and sexy dance moves demand something a little saucy and Spanish.  A nice Rioja, perhaps.   Marques de Caceres Rioja Crianza 2004, about $14. 

So, we know who we voted for (hint:  it ain't Hernandez).   In some cases, the wine outweighs the singer (we're looking at you, Cook).  But you'll have to give us your own opinions, we're already busy planning next week's menu. 

Turning Water into Wine (or vice versa)

Like so many other times in my life, currently I am trying to lose weight. And not just 5 or 10 pounds - we're talking about shedding the equivalent of a 7-year-old child. Now, the "kid" doesn't drink very much, but I do, and, a few weeks ago, I realized that one thing that might help me is to get rid of some "empty" calories is to stop imbibing. Unfortunately I am speaking about my wine, beer, and martini consumption. First, I thought I'd refrain from having a glass of wine when I get home from work (during the week) and allow myself to have a (one) glass of wine or a cocktail on the weekend. I am doing quite well with this except that it is hard to write about wine when you're not drinking the stuff. Secondly, I am making a conscious effort to drink more water all day long.
I'm not a soda drinker, and I only have milk in my coffee, so water tends to be my drink of choice, however, just try to drink 48 ounces (or more) of water a day. As I live and breathe, It is no easy feat. In the morning  I want my coffee, plain and simple. At work I get so busy that I forget to drink water, and, with dinner, I am always thinking of the perfect beverage for the meal, whether it be beer, margaritas, sake, or dry sherry. Yeah, yeah - I hear what you're saying - just have one. Good luck - if it's good it just tastes like more to me...

Recently I drank a 2005 Sepp Moser Gruner Veltliner, Qualitatswein Trocken Kremstal Gebling which is probably just going to get better with age, judging by the acidity. I love these Gru-Vee wines so much - especially with food (and as an alternative to Pinot Grigio or Riesling). This one had all the vanilla, green apple, mineral yumminess I love in these wines.